We made this for you. Premium quality piano samples 7 selectable piano models covering a wide range of piano sounds Re-pedaling technology, recreating super realistic string resonance behavior Built in room simulation Equal and stretched tuning available Compatible with AU and VST only. Mini Grand 1. The Bernese Mountain Dog side of this cross will lend a playful and friendly disposition.
From an intelligence standpoint, the Poodle is known for its high trainability, making it a great pet in general. This dog breed should also fair well with other pets as long as socialized early and often.
Mini Bernedoodles should adapt well to most living situations. This hybrid will have a long coat, so be very cautious with hot temperatures. This breed should also adapt well to apartment living as long as they are given the proper amount of exercise and attention.
The Mini Bernedoodle should be a generally healthy dog, as long as proper attention has been paid to the health of the parents. However, if you were to jack up the area between 70Hz and 80Hz, you may notice that some of the lower notes may boom for just a moment.
The range between 80Hz to Hz is where all of those boomy bass notes lie. At 80Hz, there are some frequencies in there that, if boosted, will really rumble. I describe this area as a point where the bass combines with the mid-range frequencies. Personally, I would opt more for attenuation of around -2dB at Hz or so to get the piano to sound good.
This area, like the range before, is another transition area. I think a good guideline for this area would be to just cut it out a tiny bit. This is going to have the effect of really cleaning things up a bit.
Give it a shot and see what you hear. This part of the frequency spectrum is important for the piano. Err on the side of boosting by just a tiny bit and not cutting it. I would argue that this area is where the majority of the higher notes on the piano lie. I would almost never cut this area. This is the point in the frequency range where you can get the piano notes to stand out in the mix in a big way. If you can let them sit 28 days drop them in a tub of water.
If they hold up for a couple of days, that's good enough. Q: I'm a student from Milano, Italy and for my thesis I'm doing a project on low-cost houses. I decided to work with adobe because my project site is Ecuador, where this technology is traditional. I would like to know what do you think about adobe mixed with recycled paper padobe and if could be useful to use tires for the foundation of the house and if yes how can I do them.
It is my opinion that just plain adobe is the best material. Paper added to adobe adds fiber and in some instances increases the tensile strength. However, the bricks are more likely to absorb moisture out of the air and have elevated humidity.
I do have a very personal bias and that is that homes constructed for poor people should not be experimental. Proven, long-standing technology is the choice for them. I prefer to keep the experiments in the laboratory. Q: My soil is quite dusty but mixed with all sorts of sizes of stones and the like. What's the ideally sized screen to use for sieving? I'll be protecting the adobes from the elements using plasticized canvas, but I was wondering if I have to protect the mound of sieved soil from rain too?
It's a low A: This will work fine. I don't usually bother with covering the dirt but I am in a quite dry area most of the time. Each soil has its own personality and workability which you get to discover after working with it a bit. Q: A friend of mine's father used to work for an adobe place in so cal in the s. They used only clay and an oil called beechmo? Feedback would be great.
A: Bitumen, bituthene, pitch, brea, la brea, it could all get turned into beechmo. Probably different words for asphalt emulsion which began to see use in the late 50's in California. C: I'm currently casting adobe block to use adding on to our existing adobe structure. I thought you might like to know where and how much the EA cost. I dealt with Jeff, and the transaction was simple and straight forward. I just wanted to share a resource, and spread the word on a company that will deal with the small guy.
A: Fortunately, there are no adverse effects from straw or cow dung on earthen materials. Adobe bricks have been made with those materials throughout history. As for the Rice-Husk-Ash, I am unable to say since it is outside my experience. In New Mexico, wood ash has been historically used in adobe bricks.
I would therefore guess that there would be no problem with the Rice-Husk-Ash addition. Q: I live in SE New Mexico, and am trying to build a small adobe building before hopefully going on to something more ambitious. I intend to buy the blocks, but have been making test blocks looking for suitable soils for the mortar. The New Mexico building code says soils with visible alkali salts should not be used. What is an alkali salt? My blocks form a white powder on the surface when drying, especially where they've been touched.
They form white hand prints where I grabbed them to turn them upright to dry. Is this alkali salt? If so, what does it do to the adobe? And is there anything I can do to get rid of it? I have access to dirt that is almost pure clay, which when mixed with sand is making nice blocks. But even the rain puddles near this dirt leave a white residue when they dry.
A: Alkali salts is the white stuff on top of the ground that is left after ground moisture evaporates. It's in many places around SE NM. Sounds like just what you are seeing on your blocks as they dry out. The hand prints are a new wrinkle in the great mysteries of the universe.
Might be useful in homeland security or could be turned into a new form of photography like the leaves on blueprint paper that many of us used to do in grade school. I don't think there is anything you can do to get rid of it. I say keep on making bricks.
Once they are fully cured drop them from knee height. If they survive, they are good. If they break try to find a softer surface to drop them on. If the bricks are strong when cured, then you do not have a problem in my opinion. Then just make sure you have a good foundation with tar, asphalt, or some really good waterproofing on top to stop any moisture from moving upward into the adobes.
Also be diligent in your roof construction to keep the rain off. This is good advice for any wall whether adobe, wood, or steel. Also look around your area to see if there are old adobe buildings. If they are there, then you should have no problems.
For appearance, portions of the bricks were plastered over with about one inch of adobe plaster made with Hans Sumpf fine screened soil and asphalt emulsion stabilizer. Chicken wire was nailed to the bricks, to help hold things in place.
Now, after almost 20 years the adobe plaster is deteriorated to a point where I want to replace all square feet of it. I can still get some of the screened dirt from Tom at Hans Sumpf even though they will be completely out of business by the end of this month.
Part of the plaster is well protected by a 10 foot roof overhang but other parts are not, and they even extend down to the ground, but I don't want to change the design. A fellow that you may have heard of, Gil Sanchez from Santa Cruz, will be helping me. He suggested using White Elmer's Carpenter's Glue. I'm not sure if it is better, how much to use or if it should be used in combination with the asphalt emulsion stabilizer.
What do you think? Are there any other permeable binders that I should use instead? Who is currently a good source of asphalt emulsion stabilizer? A: Wow! Gil Sanchez is the best there is. I would stick with the asphalt emulsion stabilizer. The amount I favor is about 12 to 16 ounces per wheelbarrow. That's about a 3- to 4-cubic foot load in the wheelbarrow.
Actually, I mix in a mixer but after several loads counting shovelsfull, I can judge how much is in the mixer before I pour it into the wheelbarrow. At that low rate of asphalt, the mixture is still moisture vapor permeable.
It has held up well on the exterior of the church here in El Rito with some touch up over the past 20 years. I have used Elmer's Glue but only on interior walls and then only when the soil was very sandy. Most good adobe mixes work on the interior without metal netting or any admixture. I would not use both stabilizers in the same mix. I get emulsified asphalt from Elf Asphalt which I think is nationwide.
They supply to the highway and driveway repair industries. They may have quirky requirements in the amounts they will sell and into what kind of containers they will deal with. There might be other asphalt suppliers in your area. Q: I have been working with paper clay the past 2 years and would like to make large unfired sculptures with adobe.
I read that emulsified asphalt will water proof the adobe. I live in Mexico and have not found a source to buy this material. I wonder what you know of using this or some other method more accessible. Mexicans do produce asphalt that they add to adobes in some places such as around Juarez. It has some kerosene in it sometimes and is not much fun to work with. If you can find a paint manufacturer you might be able to get some of the acrylic latex that they use as a base for water paints.
Or you can just buy some water based paint in a color that will work with your sculpture. Fish oil emulsion is also available in some places in Mexico. There is a lot of work with extracting the goo from prickly pear cactus and mixing it with clay. Back to emulsified asphalt, it is used a lot in highway asphalt repairs so if you can find an asphalt repair or construction firm, they might have it.
A Kelly : You can often buy an additive sold to stabilize white wash in Mexico that is called "resina", and I am pretty sure it is actually the acrylic latex that Quentin mentions. Q: Can you give me an idea of the percentage of material to adobe I should begin with? I can usually tell when the mud just begins to feel a bit more sticky. As soon as it will not slide easily off a trowel or shovel, it is too much. If it sticks to a trowel or shovel to begin with before any admixture, then there is too much clay and the bricks will probably crack.
Then the soil needs more sand. There are whole books written about this such as the UN Handbook: "Soil-Cement, its use in building".
See this page. Have fun. I would like to build a home either using Adobe bricks or plastered mud. My question is does the muddy soil that when wet and sticks to my shoes, good enough for making Adobe? And how fast does Adobe melt when exposed to the elements. How should I slow this process down or stop it using natural materials from the environment? A: Mormons built many adobe homes in the Georgetown area.
There is now a walking history tour of about ten of those houses the elders built. If the muddy soil sticks to your shoes then there is certainly enough clay to make bricks. In fact there may be too much and the bricks will crack as they dry out.
I prefer sand. A pitched roof with adequate overhang is one way to increase the lifetime. There is a lot of interest in lime based plasters and you might have local sources of lime in the area. For that you need to find an old-timer who has worked with the local materials and can tell you where to find them and how to use them.
If you have prickly pear cactus around they can be chopped up in a fifty-five gallon drum and left to percolate a bit. After a while a green sticky goo is produced that can be lifted out and added to mud to make a fairly waterproof plaster. Q: Where do you live, New Mexico?
And the bit about the chopped prickly pear is interesting. There are at least two varieties here. One is green the other purple. She started with a lime stabilized plaster but did not feel it worked out. She removed it and replaced it with the cactus juice plaster.
We started to fool around with our local prickly pear cactus but we got so busy last May building what was then our largest dome that we forgot and let the cactus dry out. I would say that you might cut up purple and green cactus and put them in separate five-gallon buckets and cover them with water. After a week or ten days they should ferment and if you keep stirring daily it should turn into a gelatinous mess.
Then you lift out the mess with some fork-like device and leave behind the spines. The gelatinous mess can then be used to make plaster and I think around a pint per wheelbarrow is a ratio for starting. Maybe a quart. Every soil is different in how it reacts to admixtures. Then you just have to scientifically monkey around till you find a mixture that can be troweled, does not crack upon drying, and demonstrates an enhanced resistance to water erosion.
It will not be perfect, but if you can go from standard soil mixtures which have a one- to three-year life expectancy on a wall to a five-year or greater life, then you have made progress. Q: How does lime preserve an adobe? A: I don't know. We only used it once in at Ghost Ranch for the Sundwellings and there appeared to be no difference between the naturals and the lime admixtures. It was no fun to shovel the lime into the mix since it was a fine powder and it is caustic.
There are people out there writing books on the loveliness of lime in adobe plaster or just plain lime and sand plasters. I stick with just plain mud. Q: I live in Michigan and am interested in building an adobe oven.
Would this material be a suitable substitute for adobe soil? A: If it will make a fired brick without modification then is should make a fine adobe brick dried in the sun. We know of no adobe structures in Michigan. There are still thirteen adobe brick homes built by English settlers around Geneva, NY around the 's. As long as there is a foundation which need be nothing more than gravel about 8 inches deep and mounded up above the surrounding ground level, the horno should work just fine.
Q: I live at feet in the high-desert of New Mexico Taos. I am trying to use available resources and have a question about a particular earth recipe. It seems similar to "straw clay" but is rather "horse clay", with smaller fibers. I would obtain enough sand to plaster over this with a more water resistant mix. A: I think that your use of horse manure is perfect. The closer to single fibers, the stronger the bond of straw to adobe. Big, heavy wheat straw is slippery and stiff and does not bond as well.
Ancient cultures discovered it is a lot easier to let the horse do the work instead of chopping straw all day. Hassan Fathy thought that if the mud can sit for three days that the microbes present begin to make lactic acid which strengthens the adobe bricks.
I am not sure this has ever been verified in a laboratory, but history is the best laboratory. For your water resistant plaster, the higher the clay content, the more resistant the plaster.
For some reason, traditional wisdom tells us that cow manure is better for this water resistant plaster mix than horse manure. The Australians say, "the fresher, the better. The gelatinous goo is mixed in with the plaster at about a quart per wheelbarrow. We are still looking for a good dome plaster ourselves. We will have to replaster two this spring. For a culture that is used to frequent maintenance that is acceptable but for the Modern American Ethic, long term solutions are the sought after ideal.
Let us know how it works out. Q: I wasn't clear if compressed earth block requirements would be exactly the same, according to the codes, as adobe. A: Some soils that will make adobes will not work for CEB's and vice versa. CEB's are made pretty dry so emulsified asphalt cannot be used as a stabilizer. Q: Can either tung on linseed oil be used for strengthening an abode oven given the temperatures as high as degrees?
A: We have not tried tung nor linseed oil on adobe ovens so I don't know if it will work. We have found that just plain natural adobes work fine and on some occasions we have used asphalt stabilized adobes. If asphalt stabilization works then my guess is that linseed or tung oil would work.
But that is a guess. Good old nothing always seems the best bet unless you are in a mood to experiment and report back with your findings.
Over many years of use we do see that some of the interior surface of the ovens flakes off. Never enough to compromise the structure however.
Most ovens collapse from exterior water problems. Q: I am a 32 year old single mother of 2, who got 15 acres awarded to me from the divorce. With little money but lots of enthusiasm and determination, I have laid the footings for the adobe block and now have reached some bumps on the road. My next step was to lay the adobe block but now I can't find anyone with an adobe machine.
I'm leaning more towards making them myself, or purchasing them in Mexico 5 miles away. Enlighten me, please any suggestions would help. I have plenty of land and great soil for the adobes. A: You are just the type of person for whom adobe was created. You can certainly make adobe bricks yourself.
A form that makes 4 at once uses the contents of a standard wheelbarrow. In New Mexico the standard adobe size has somehow turned out to be 10x14x4inches.
One of my women students is happily making adobes for herself. It is hard but rewarding work. You can certainly buy adobes in Mexico. Sometimes they are stabilized with asphalt but in Mexico it may be "cut-asphalt" which has some solvent in it which can give residual out gassing.
Try to get natural adobes or adobes stabilized with emulsified asphalt which will not out gas. In the long run, you may be happier with sun-cured bricks you have made yourself or purchased. The machine made bricks are a little different to lay up. With regular adobes you can place UF electrical cable in the mortar joints to run electrical outlets around your rooms. You can do plumbing by chipping adobes to fit around pipes and tubing. Around the border, there are often many people who associate adobe with tough economic times.
They think of adobes as simple huts. Far from it, the adobe home is the most powerful construction presently practiced on earth - not counting the new concrete and steel filled foam form things - which will suffer the fate of Hummers and regional airports as the fuel cost squeeze hits the construction industry.
In New Mexico all the MacMansions are adobe or fake adobe. It is recognized here as the premium building material. You will be proud of yourself one day soon. Q: I've sampled my dirt and did that test in the water bottle.
I'm not sure I did it correctly because I have half water and half dirt. No layering of sand, rock or anything.
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